Norway – The Land of Mountains, Waterfalls, Trolls and more

First view of Oslo!

I’d need a whole lot of adjectives to describe the beauty of Norway in plain words, it’s breathtaking, stunning, awe-inspiring, and more. 

I can also use some pretty serious adjectives about how expensive this country is. Add about 15-20% to your regular European vacation to holiday in Norway. 

But let me assure you that it’s worth every extra penny of your hard-earned money!   

Norway is largely untouched by the spoils of excessive tourism. There are tourists, of course, who flock to this land to soak in its many natural wonders but their numbers are still low compared to other popular European destinations like Paris and London. 

This also translates into the fact that there are no touts thronging you as you approach any sightseeing spot. And the country is clean, like really clean!!

There is also no overtly done touristy stuff like funiculars or ropeways connecting you to any of the high mountain peaks.  If you want to see a mountain top, you gear up and climb! 

There is one funicular in Bergen, though, the FlØbanen, (pronounced as Flo-banen) that connects the city centre with the mountain FlØyen and is a major tourist attraction. And there is a popular Gondola in Andalsnes too, that takes you to the top of the mountain. And there is another Gondola to take you to the top of the Skanda Ski Resort near Ålesund. Tourists attract such funiculars and gondolas! 

Such heavenly sights are commonplace in Norway!

Talking of mountains, Norway has one of the most spectacular mountain peaks in the world. What I found especially interesting was the way Norwegians talk about them, they revere them, to say the least! 

And talking of Norwegians, they are a helpful lot. I can recount so many incidents during our stay, that left us totally in awe of their nicety towards tourists. 

And how can one forget to mention the lavish salmon spreads in breakfast buffets all over Norway? 

Another thing that struck me was the seriousness of recycling in Norway. 

This picture speaks for itself…. I think they are referring to the famous environmental activist Greta Thunberg.

There is not find a single shred of paper or rubbish to be found on the roadsides ever! 

If you look at the map of Norway, you will see that it’s spread vertically along the Norwegian Sea and the northern territories reach as far as the Arctic ocean. Travelling length-wise across the country can be a daunting, expensive task. 

So, we decided to restrict ourselves to the country’s southern parts only on our 21-day trip. Starting with Oslo, the capital city of Norway to Bergen, then to Ålesund, further to Andalsnes, and back to Oslo for our journey ahead.      

Oslo is the capital city; like most capitals, it is the seat of the government. The entire city can be covered on foot, there are cobbled streets flooded with people, restaurants and roadside kiosks. Karl Johann Gate is the main city hub. 

One can find these planters are
everywhere in the country, in varying sizes but identical! 
 

The one thing that immediately caught my attention was that the entire street and the area around it are lined with planter troughs filled with seasonal flowers. 

These planters were huge and were placed along the main boulevard at Karl Johann Street. On asking around, we learnt that this was done deliberately in the year 2017 to prevent any rash rundowns on the street since it was an all-pedestrian area.

These troughs also served as ‘terror hindrances’ to provide extra security cover to the area around the parliament to avoid any drive-ins by the terrorists. Imagine using flowers to stop terrorists!! This impressive piece of information set the scene for our journey into this beautiful country.

Oslo is quietly vibrant, the harbour front on the Norwegian Sea is lined with sailboats and fjord cruises. These are cruises that head out into the Oslo fjord and offer drinks and shrimp on board. 

Along the waterfront is Aker Brygge, an area popular for eateries, shopping and entertainment. 

The famous Nobel Peace Prize centre is also located here. If you’re interested in history, then spending a couple of paid hours in the museum can be a very enriching experience. 

Otherwise, the museum offers some great free photo opportunities on the famous ‘smile bench’ just outside its premises. 

The entire area around the harbour offers cosy sitting spaces with parks and benches and some beautiful sculptures in bronze and cast iron. 

So, keeping aside an extra hour to roam around the harbour is a good idea, especially along the harbour promenade. 

Large, conspicuous orange information towers have been set up along the way to keep you on your path.    

Oslo has lots of museums, I mean lots! Some of them are free but most of them are not. Ticket prices are steep. If you have an eye for art, then visiting ‘The Munch Museum’, which displays the artworks of Norwegian artist Edvard Munch can be rewarding. 

But one open-air museum that is sure to catch your fancy is the Vigeland Sculpture Park. Entry to the park is free and there are frequent trams from the Oslo Train Station to the park (Tram line 12). 

It is the largest park in the world to exhibit bronze and cast-iron statues of the same artist, Gustav Vigeland. One can easily spend a few hours in the park, looking at the statues and marvelling at the detail that has gone into crafting them. 

You just need to keep in mind that though the park entry is free, the toilets are chargeable Kr. 15/- for use and accept only cards, no cash. I was lucky that a young local woman readily paid for me on her card.

Another free attraction in the city of Oslo is the change of guard at the Royal Palace at 1:30 pm each day. The ceremony is quite sombre compared to the ceremony at Buckingham Palace or the Royal Palace of Stockholm, for example, and lasts for about 40 minutes. But it can be a good pastime on a sunny day.

Our next destination was Bergen. The train ride from Oslo to Bergen lasts 6.5 hours and is absolutely scenic. My word is, don’t miss it to opt for any other mode of transport. There is not a dull moment on this train as it flies past quaint little towns, snow-covered peaks, lakes, and ponds.

The stunning train journey from Oslo to Bergen...don't miss this one!

The one thing that comes to mind the moment I think of Bergen is the incessant rain. It rains for almost 200 days a year. If you’re planning any outdoor activity, looking up the day’s weather forecast is a good idea. 

Bergen has a funicular, as I mentioned earlier, that takes you to the top of the mountain and offers beautiful views of the scenery all around.

The highlight of your trip to Bergen is, of course, the row of coloured houses at The Hanseatic wharf.  

This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is a must on your visit. The wharf has antique shops, picture galleries and museums hidden in small lanes and alleyways offering trinkets. 

The famous backdrop that Bergen is known for, the Hanseatic Wharf!

My advice is that if you want to buy any souvenirs, this is the most reasonable place to do so. We discovered that the prices of such trinkets in other cities in Norway were higher compared to here. We had to pay more for similar stuff that we did not buy in Bergen. Bergen has an aquarium, if you’re travelling with kids, then it’s worth visiting.

I had read somewhere that Bergen has been named the UNESCO city of Gastronomy.  Being in Bergen and eating the local cuisine with fresh produce from the sea, I know why. 

If you’re looking for something exotic, then a trip to ‘Cornelius’ Seafood restaurant, off the coast of Bergen, is a must. The restaurant is located on a small island that offers beautiful views of the fjord. The seating is interesting, one sits right next to the water body in a closed, comfortable space. There is a steward allocated to each group of guests who makes you feel like a royal. 

There are options for 5-course meals excluding drinks. It includes, though, a 30-minute boat ride from the Wharf to the island with paid drinks on board. 

The dinner package can dig a hole in your pocket but the food was every bit sumptuous and the entire experience was delightful. We were in Bergen for our wedding anniversary, so we decided to splurge.

Your visit to Bergen is incomplete without a day trip to the fairy tale village of Flåm (pronounced Flum). Apart from the village itself, it’s the train ride with Flåmbana, Flåm railway, that is the show stealer. Whether you're coming from Oslo or Bergen, you need to get down at Myrdal to board the train going to Flåm.  

We had read a lot about this beautiful train ride from Bergen to Flåm, which side to sit on, what to expect and so on. After having visited Flam, there are a few points I’d like to make of my own. One, the train runs on a normal gauge, so it’s spacious. This means that whatever side you sit on, you will still be able to see the scenery all around. There are no reservations on this train, so one can sit anywhere. Two, the train maintains a comfortable pace, so one has enough time to look around and take in the sights. So, just relax! 

The Fairy tale village of Flam.....view from the train!

A few minutes into the journey, there is a halt at the famous Kjosfossen waterfall. 

Don’t forget to get off the train. The halt is only two minutes but what a memorable two minutes! Suddenly there is music and a water nymph appears out of nowhere around the waterfall. I later learned she’s called Huldra, the enchantress, a forest spirit who lures away men. Had I known earlier, I would’ve held on to my husband more tightly! I made a video of this whole spectacle but posting it would spoil the fun. So just a picture should do!

The rest of the journey is all oohs and aahs from fellow passengers who are gaping at the scenic sights.

Flåm is touristy, and overnight stays can be expensive. It’s a small place and one can see the entire village easily within a few hours unless you want to spend time biking and hiking around the stunning scenery. 

There are a few eateries, a souvenir shop and even a small museum at the train station itself. The main village of Flåm is about a 25-minute walk from the train station.  

Instead of coming back to Bergen by the same train, because, however scenic, return journeys are never as much fun, we opted to take a cruise from Flåm to Bergen. 

This cruise is on the Sognefjord, also called the King of Fjords. Sognefjord is the deepest and longest fjord in Norway. The cruise station is right next to the railway station. 

The Cruise on Sognefjord, King of Fjords!

Sognefjord is majestic! It serpentines its way through the North Sea and is surrounded by massive, verdant mountains on all sides with beautiful waterfalls dotting the landscape. The trip takes about 5 and ½ hours.  

Our next stop is Ålesund by air from Bergen. Ålesund is considered to be the most beautiful city in Norway, with a stunning harbourfront and its location right at the entrance to the Geiranger Fjord. 

One can get stunning views of the city from the Aksla viewpoint. 

Ålesund in the background from Aksla viewpoint

It takes 418 steps from the town park to get to the top of the viewpoint. On a clear day, one can see the city on one side and the sea on the other. 

Also, I noticed a lot of trolls in Ålesund, in front of shops, and even grocery stores, which gives a very touristy vibe to the city.

The city is known for its Art Nouveau, there is a long story behind it. To cut it short, the city had got drastically burnt in 1904 and was rebuilt again according to the art style of that time. 

Art Nouveau along the shore

You can take a walk along the harbour and see a lot of houses with colourful facades and curvy outlines along the harbour lending an old-world charm to an otherwise modern city. There is an Art Nouveau museum if you wish to learn more about the history of the city.

In Ålesund, one can get the best Fish and Chips ever! There is a small eatery called ‘Jafs’ right next to the harbourfront. 

Their tagline is ‘Probably the best Fish & chips in the world’. I think they should change it to ‘The best Fish & chips in the world’.                  

Ålesund is a popular destination for taking day trips to Trollstigen, the mountain road with curvy bends and a viewing platform. This is a sure not-to-miss attraction. 

There are many local trips available in the city of Ålesund. In fact, the agency we opted for is called LocalTrips. The owner, Trond, was exceptionally helpful and friendly. This blog would be incomplete without mentioning his name. 

We had to get some changes made in our bus bookings onward from Ålesund. Every time we called, we were put in a long queue and ultimately greeted with an automated message in Norwegian. Trond volunteered to speak to the people at the booking counter on our behalf and got our ticket dates changed. The trip was personally conducted by him and was very interesting and informative.

Stunning mountain scenery outside of Ålesund

The ravine and the strawberries!

The trip started with a short stop at Gutbrandsjuvet, a tumultuous ravine that is easily accessible from the main road. 

There are viewing bridges to see the ravine from the top.

There is a folklore about a boy called Gutbrand who had eloped with the girl he loved and jumped over the cliff, hence the name.  

Here one can taste some freshly grown strawberries of the region directly from the field.

There are gushing rivers and waterfalls everywhere you look. Next, we drove to the top of Trollstigen via a splendid landscape lining both sides of the road.

Beautiful scenery lining the road!

One has to walk to the top of the mountain to reach the highest viewing platform to see the road, but it’s not as tough as it sounds. The steps are very broad and evenly spaced out. Once you reach the top, you’ll know that the effort was worth it. 

One gets a bird’s eye view of the curvy road with hairpin bends with stunning mountain scenery as the backdrop and the lusty Stigfossen waterfall in all its glory from here.  

Stigfossen on the left and Trollstigen far below

When you’re driving down Trollstigen, remember to keep your camera ready to catch a very up and close view of the cascading waters of this waterfall that you would not want to miss!

Our next stop on the trip was the Troll Wall. The wall is an awe-inspiring vertical piece of rock, the tallest cliff in Europe. You can get some great photos here to bring back home and boast about. There are some huge troll figures also waiting to be photographed with you.

Don't miss the massive cliffs in the background...The Troll Wall

Lastly, is the trip to Fjellstua, the 418 steps that can take you to the top of a viewing platform for mesmerising views of the entire city of Ålesund, its colourful houses and the surrounding sea.

From Ålesund, we embark on the last leg of our journey in Norway to Andalsnes by bus which takes about 2 and ½ hours to reach. The route, again, is breathtaking. But by now I am done making videos, so I just sit back and gaze at the beautiful bridges and lakes passing by. 

Andalsnes is a mountaineer’s paradise. It has the Norwegian Mountaineering Centre in the hub of the town. There is a gondola ride of 4 and ½ minutes to the top of Mt Nesaksla to look down on Andalsnes and Romsdalsfjord. 

Apart from these mountaineering and hiking activities, Andalsnes is quite laid-back and relaxing. We spent a whole day strolling along the shoreline. 

View at 1 a.m. from our room

We stayed at the Grand Hotel which boasts panoramic views of the Romsdalstindene peaks. 

We were lucky to get a room facing the peaks. The view at night was astounding!

 

There is a small cafe around the corner as you walk down from the hotel, called Sødahlhuset. The food was amazing and it was accompanied by a live singer on her piano. The young girl’s melodious voice breaking through the quiet all around was magical.

With this our trip was coming to a close, there was one attraction remaining though. Our train trip from Andalsnes to Oslo via Dombås. 

This train ride has been rated as the most scenic train journey by Lonely Planet and rightly so. I took out my camera and could never put it back. 

The train runs on the famous Rauma Line and the views outside could make you catch your breath. 

It chugs its way through the beautiful valley of Romsdalen, and the high cliffs, rivers, green mountains, and waterfalls, all seem to be following the train.

These picturesque last 5 and ½ hours by train will always be my lasting memory of this beautiful country.